An effective rabbit poison is the anticoagulant, Pindone. This is available in bait form as liquid Pindone, usually laced carrots, or Pindone pellets. The optimum time to use Pindone poison is in winter, as this is when food sources are most scarce and fewer young rabbits are present due to other mortality factors. Like most anticoagulants, Pindone is slow acting and requires the rabbit to consume baits over several days to be effective, with this in mind it is considered to be a humane poison.

It's always best to ensure that no domestic stock or pets have access to the areas being treated. It is, therefore, essential to plan stock movements in advance to accommodate the intended poisoning operation. An effective antidote (Vitamin K1, phytomenadione) is available from veterinarians either as an injection or as a tablet, if required.

Warning signs must be erected at all access points to the areas being treated and ideally you will be undertaking control work in collaboration with your neighbours but if not, you should notify all adjacent land occupiers (and any others who may have access to the area) of your intention to undertake a poison operation.

Caution: When using any herbicide or pesticide PLEASE READ THE LABEL THOROUGHLY to ensure that all instructions and safety requirements are followed.

Pindone carrot

Liquid Pindone laced carrots generally work best during winter months. As liquid Pindone laced carrot cannot be stored for long periods of time, planning of anticipated operations needs to be conveyed to contractors well in advance to ensure sufficient carrot is available from growers.

Pindone carrot baiting must be undertaken by the holder of an Approved Use for Pindone Certificate and/or Controlled Substance License (CSL).

Pindone pellets

Pindone pellets are readily available, store quite well and are ideally used when natural feed conditions are dry (e.g. summer). They can be dispensed in bait stations by anyone, provided they follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Pindone pellets can also be broadcasted outside of bait stations – however this can only be undertaken by the holder of an Approved Use for Pindone Certificate and/or Controlled Substance License (CSL).

Please note results can be variable when broadcasting pellets outside of bait stations if the environmental conditions are unsuitable (e.g. ground moisture can be absorbed by the pellets making them less palatable).

While bait stations may have an advantage of not requiring a CSL, rabbits are generally cautious about feeding from them as they are neophobic.

Watch the video below to learn more about using pindone pellets in bait stations.

Find further information on how to use Pindone pellets effectively.

An ideal habitat for rabbits is easily found on a lot of properties like gardens and lawns with short grass, garden sheds, wood piles or dense vegetation that provide cover.

Habitat changes to make your land less desirable for rabbits can have a more permanent impact on rabbit numbers than other methods such as poisoning.

You can do this by:

• removing any piles of wood, rubbish or vegetation that offer rabbits protection from the weather and predators
• pruning the bottom of shrubs and hedges so they don’t provide a suitable shelter for rabbits
• ensuring that any gaps under buildings and sheds are blocked to prevent rabbits from gaining access

Fumigation is best used to control medium to low density populations or in conjunction with other methods such as a follow-up after a poison operation.

To effectively fumigate a rabbit warren, you need to be able to identify and seal off all entrances. This may require a coordinated approach across multiple properties and as with any poison operation you should try to coordinate with your neighbours if you are going to undertake work.

Fumigation can be carried out at any time of year, but it has the greatest long-term effect if carried out before the rabbit breeding season (late winter to early summer).

Fumigants are toxins used to kill rabbits in their burrows. When a fumigant is introduced to a burrow system it produces toxic fumes, which are inhaled by the rabbit’s causing death by absorption through the lungs.

The main advantage with using fumigants is that the operator does not have to rely on the rabbit eating bait. It is also a very effective method of controlling young rabbits which don’t wander far from their burrows.

Fumigation using Magtoxin

The most common fumigant used to control rabbits is Magtoxin. Magtoxin is a solid fumigant that reacts with water vapour from the soil and air to release a toxic and flammable gas called hydrogen phosphide. This gas is heavier than air and flows through the burrow.

Engaging a professional contractor is recommended, however anybody can purchase up to 3kg of Magtoxin from rural supply stores and carry out the work themselves without needing a Controlled Substance Licence (CSL). If you are planning to undertake the work yourself, please note the following: :

• PLEASE READ THE LABEL THOROUGHLY to ensure that all safety precautions, and handling and storage instructions are followed carefully.
• Magtoxin is only effective for burrows or warrens and is not suitable for rabbits living in piles of rocks or under buildings
• Be aware of the symptoms of poisoning and the recommended first aid treatment
• Many burrows have more than one entrance so make sure you locate all of them
• Advise your neighbours if you are intending to carry out a toxin operation

Controlling Rabbits with Fumigation.

Watch the video to learn more about using fumigation (magtoxin).

Shooting is an effective method of controlling low rabbit infestations. Shooting to control medium or high rabbit numbers has limited effect on the population level and may result in surviving rabbits becoming more wary. Poisoning is a more appropriate and cost-effective method for controlling medium to high levels of rabbits.

Shooting is ideally used as a secondary control method after a poisoning operation to address remaining rabbits (i.e. mop up survivors), and as an on-going maintenance tool to keep rabbit numbers low.

Engaging a professional contractor to do this work is recommended, but if you are undertaking the work yourself, please note the following:

• You must hold a firearms licence
• You cannot shoot a rifle in urban areas. Shooting can only be carried out in urban areas by a certified contractor.
• You can use an air rifle without having a firearms licence if you’re over 18 years of age and follow safety precautions
• Contact neighbours before carrying out any shooting
• Make sure you positively identify your target before shooting
• Shooting is most effective at night, when the sky is overcast and there is little or no wind
• Return to areas where rabbits may have been missed and, if possible, approach from a different direction

We recommended that you ask your neighbours, other nearby landowners, local biodiversity groups or farming groups for their suggestions.

Alternatively, if you are interested in more information about rabbit contractors working in your area, please contact us on 0800 474 082 or at biosecurity@orc.govt.nz and we can email you a current list.   

A good contractor should be able to discuss options for permanently reducing rabbit numbers (i.e. long-term control) rather than just focussing on immediate gains (i.e. short-term control). A good contractor will also be able to answer the following:

• What is their experience? Have they undertaken programmes in the local area before?
• Are they authorised to use chemicals e.g. do they hold a Controlled Substance Licence?
• Do they have protective clothing and equipment?
• Can they direct you to previous clients who will vouch for their work?

It is recommended if hiring a contractor, you encourage them to conduct a site inspection to obtain an accurate quote.

Your contractor may ask:

• What your short and long term goals are
• Where and what is the damage
• Location of rabbit feeding areas
• Location of burrows
• Location of rabbit habitat
• Whether the neighbours have feral rabbits
• Rabbit numbers: small or large population
• What treatment you would like to use on your property
• Whether there are any methods that you are opposed to
• Where you want them to work on your property
• An indication of budget available
• Location and type of wildlife on your property – such as native birds, stock or pets

If you’re unable to provide this information, recommend the contractor inspects the site. If they don’t ask at least some of these questions, it is worth seeking additional quotes.

At a minimum, the contractor should be able to outline:

• A method for primary treatment to provide an initial knockdown of rabbits (e.g. Pindone carrot)
• They should also be able to inform you about:
  • Methods for follow-up secondary treatment to address any rabbits left behind after the primary treatment
  • Likely success of any treatment methods discussed
  • Realistic expectations in the absence of good fencing (if applicable)

The contractor may also outline how to assess changes in active burrows, rabbit abundance, plant germination and recovery, night counts, and before-and-after photos.

You will see evidence of active rabbit behaviour such as fresh new scratchings (freshly turned soil), fresh droppings (black and shiny), reopened or new burrows created, vegetation attacked, and crops grazed. In time, more burrows will be reopened or dug.